The most important part of the band saw is the blade. I use
premium quality Delta blades because they last. It is very
important to select the widest blade allowable for the selected
cut. Wider blades follow cut lines better than narrow blades.
Premium quality blades are made from better steel that stays
sharper longer. They are more affordable in the long run for
I like to tune up my band saw by first backing all guide blocks
and thrust bearings away from the blade. Then the blade is
adjusted so it tracks on the middle of the top band saw tire.
Tension the blade so the blade width matches the corresponding tension scale.
Next adjust the guide blocks (above and below the table) so the leading edges of the blocks
are positioned right behind the set of the teeth. The guide blocks are locked in place as
close to the sides of the blade as possible without actually touching. Move the two thrust bearings so they are right behind the blade at rest, yet do not start to spin until cutting
begins. Lock all table and parts securely before cutting. If these steps are used ~ blade drift
just will not happen!
Use the widest blade possible to complete the job at hand. Wide blades
produce smoother cuts.
Always allow ample time for the gullet of the blade to clear sawdust from
the kerf. If the blade smokes during the cut - the blade is either dull or the
material is being fed too quickly into the blade.
Specialty Tool Tip:
I always upgrade my 14” band saws with the riser block. This gives me a
full 12” depth of cut and more than doubles the sculpting work possible
with various blades. Plus it allows for wider board re-sawing.
The fence with the built-in scale makes for speedy ripping and re-sawing.
Never adjust the guide block assembly if the band saw is running!
Turn the saw off, let the blade stop, and then make all necessary
adjustments. This is just common sense.